Zao Onsen

Take a stroll down the old district street in Zao Onsen and at the end you’ll come upon the centuries old Miyamaso Takamiya ryokan. It was founded in 1716 by Yaheiji Okazaki and his descendants are still at the head of inn today. It also remains in the original spot, the current building of which is over 100 years old. Even if you’re not staying here, it’s hard to resist snapping a picture of the entrance.

Today I want to take you inside this beautiful inn and share some of its history that most visitors don’t know. Here’s where I have to admit that I’m a little biased and I might have special access to certain information- my husband is the 17th generation of the Takamiya Ryokan family. His father is the 16th Yaheiji Okazaki and I’ll get more into the family later.

The Building

Originally comprised of 4 buildings, they’ve been connected over the years, giving the hotel a labyrinth feel that you are encouraged to explore. If you find yourself lost in the maze of halls, the staff will help guide you. The buildings are completely made up of wood, and there are spaces where traditional techniques have been used so you won’t even find metal screws. To preserve the integrity of the original structure, there also aren’t any elevators, so be prepared for a bit of stair climbing. In fact, there have been multiple negative reviews posted solely on the lack of an elevator. Sometimes, preserving history takes precedence over comfort.

When you enter the lobby, the inviting scent of incense greets you warmly, as does a sense of calm energy. To the left of reception is a lounge with a window quite literally into the heart of the onsen. This particular source naturally appeared over 300 years ago and supplies hot spring water exclusively to Takamiya. 

Moments in History

Take a look at the pictures on the walls- they offer a fascinating glimpse into the past. Personally, I love this colorized picture taken in the 1920s. Much of the original building remains today, and you can easily picture yourself in that time- though it might be frowned upon now if you try to venture out onto the rooftop.

Notably, the imperial family has stayed multiple times in the room Shiragiku. The name itself has been derived from the royal crest- kiku, the chrysanthemum flower. In 1950, Takamatsu no Miya, the uncle of the former emperor stayed at Takamiya for the first of 6 visits. Here he is (seated), photographed with the 15th generation Yaheiji Okazaki and some of his extended family.

In 1951, the former emperor Akihito and his college friends also stayed at Takamiya for 4 nights while in their 20s. He’s seated second from the left in the above picture. 

When you stay at Miyamaso, you walk the same halls as the royal family. Their room, Shiragiku is shown below. It’s available for booking, so you don’t need to be royalty to stay here.

It seems like with every corner you turn in Miyamaso there’s something unique to photograph. My favorite feature? The stone hallway located inside. It’s shifted and bent over time, lending to the aura of age that envelopes the property. There are multiple odes to nature, with the use of wood, trees, and stone throughout. It truly feels like you’ve stepped into the past. Another lounge on the second floor invites you to relax, with relics from the family vault on display as well.

After you’ve settled in, there are 4 onsen for you to enjoy. They rotate daily so you can try them all during your stay. Be warned, they’re very hot and not intended for long soaks. 

Miyamaso is one of the oldest and most revered inns in Zao Onsen and has been featured on multiple Japanese variety shows, as well as part of CNN travel.

Family Life

I didn’t fully grasp the weight of the family and the responsibility they feel for the village until after I was married. I was charmed yet taken aback by stories of how he and his parents along with his two siblings shared one room while growing up inside the ryokan. While his parents worked nearly around the clock, he was surrounded and raised by staff who still work at the ryokan today. For me, they truly embody what it means to be a family business.

The thought of sharing one room with my parents and brother is unimaginable, but one of the things I fell in love with is how close he is with his family. They’re serious when it comes to work and conduct themselves with the pride of their legacy, yet they’re warm and uncharacteristically affectionate for the stereotypical Japanese. Family dinners double as business meetings, but imagine growing up surrounded by 300 years of Japanese history, walking corridors that have been tread upon by centuries of guests. Hospitality is all they’ve ever known.

When I ask him what it was like growing up in such a historic building, he shrugs it off and says it was normal. From the outside looking in, it’s certainly anything but normal. Daily onsen dips were a given, and the kitchen staff made lunch boxes for kindergarten. Ceremony and graduation pictures were taken in the main hall, forever a part of the Takamiya Miyamaso history. Maybe one day his picture will be on the wall, with our great grandkids passing down the story of Takamiya to their children.